Thursday
May142009

You Gotta Eat! Missing Morels this May

John J. Mantia

Mid-May is the end of morel hunting season, as the days are too long, and the sun too hot. Yet in New York recently, rain and mild temperatures hovered for weeks. It was early spring revisited, and reminded me when, a few years ago, I interviewed morel mushroom expert Tom Nauman.

It was March in Henry, Illinois, a small town in the Illinois River Valley. Unlike the rest of the state, farmland recedes, and the land steeply drops into banks of the River. Tom’s home is surrounded by ash, elm and maple trees rising from thick swaths of underbrush, a rare sight in the prairie state.

On his front porch, our breaths just visible in the mist-soaked morning air, Tom smiled. The weather had just turned, and soon morels would pop in the woodland that surrouned us both.  This was good for Tom, not so good for me. Tom had yet to shuffle amid the thorns and dying tree trunks in search of the season's first. So instead morel omelets, we ate burgers and slugged warm beer at Henry’s local bowling alley-con-restaurant.

If I were to distill Tom's musings on how to find morels, there would be no reply.  There simply is little rhyme or reason in the hunt. Finding the honeycombed, mud-colored fungi is simply vexing. The exercise is dizzying, nearly hallucinogenic. Even a seasoned hunter, eye-weary or not, will miss troves of morels, unable to differentiate between leaf decay and bounty.

The Greenmarket purveyors here in Manhattan just announced the end of ramp season, another wild, early-spring wonder. With the ramp season at an end, local morels are surely gone too. Unceremoniously, I let spring slip by without a taste of this year’s crop. I am terribly angry.

If only lower Manhattan were full of trees and thick with underbrush, I could have fashioned a mesh bag and walking stick, then tried my luck along Hudson Park. Oh well. I’m sure that the woodland-tramping few who snagged this season's morels know that their window for a final fry in good butter, brandy and a touch of cream will soon be at an end anyway. I just wish I was there to share their final sauté.

Tuesday
May122009

The ____ Generation: Take It or Leave It

Sara D. Anderson

“I love Willie’s sense of humor,” Stephanie concludes, after finishing her story about Willie Nelson’s most recent pot bust while he was on tour in Louisiana. It was during the e-coli scare when the FDA ordered the recall of spinach back in 2006, and all Willie could tell the officer on board his tour bus was, “It’s a good thing it’s not spinach.”

All of Stephanie Chernikowski’s stories are colorful – my first instincts were that I got lucky hearing all of these light-hearted stories albeit the unforeseen short-lived punk rock era full of dark, raw lyrics, emblematic anthems of anger, and anti-authoritative point of views, while everyone is shooting heroin and snorting snow. But then I change my mind. As she and I chat at the table in the center of the room of her photo exhibit at the Morrison Hotel Gallery in Soho, I watch her interact with curious walk-ins as they seem to gravitate towards her buoyant presence.

“If you have any questions about any of the photographs, I’m the photographer. I’m happy to answer them,” Chernikowski kindly offers to the ambling customers. She has striking spiky gray hair, an exposed tan, and is wearing a fitted black tank and a casual warm smile. One guy asks her about the date of a photo of the Cramps performing at the CBGB venue. As they throw around possibilities (she will later tell me that she has a hard time remembering dates) he casually adds that he was in Shrapnel, a punk band with wild theatrics that opened for the Cramps that night. “I hitchhiked to New York, I got here 15 minutes before we were supposed to go on, and got into a huge fight with Legs McNeil; I was going to put his face through the wall, just like everyone else wanted to do.” Perched on the gallery wall, the photo of the Cramps is full of energy, a birds-eye view of a dense cluster of fans rocking out while Lux Interior is, in an un-mistakenly in a stripe suit, immersed in the audience, dancing and crawling over seat tops. Cherinkowski captures all this while perched up in the balcony boxes inside of the full-house theater.

Her exhibit – at the Morrison Hotel Gallery through the middle of May - is named “Images of the Blank Generation” after the Richard Hell song, and is enclosed in the same four walls as the original CBGB venue; this is where Punk Rock flourished in NYC and the Ramones got their record deal. (Richard Hell tells Lester Bangs in an interview that the lyrics are about trying to see clearly the "doubt and suspicion and despair" not as affirmation, but "taken there by reality" even though most misconstured it as nihilism.) The set up of the exhibit is simply in chronological order. But as she goes through the thought process of the layout, there’s more to it than just dates; she is also grouping artists based on relationships, which she knows better than most: “I just felt like the first thing people should see when they walked in was the Ramones because they are kind of synonymous with CBGB and I love those shots. And then from the Ramones I went figured we may as well put up the other really iconic figures in and so I put up Debbie, Patti, Richard Hell, Talking Heads, and Tom Verlaine (Tom and Richard worked together so I thought they should be together).” She proceeds to explain the rest of the layout, putting Elvis Costello next to Richard Hell since they performed together at CBGB when the St. Marks Poetry Project had to relocate their event due to a fire in 1978 that almost completely destroyed St. Marks Church. “Richard Hell and Patti Smith were [both] active in the Poetry Project; Patti reads there every New Year’s Day,” she adds. Farther down the wall are Velvet Underground band-mates Nico followed by John Cale.

Cherinkowski's photography career fittingly launched when she started attending concerts. The first concert Chernikowski attended in NYC was not at CBGBs, but at the Lincoln Center to see Patti Smith; she had heard about Smith before she moved out from Texas in 1975. Smith during that time just discovered CBGB and Television, and soon after Chernikowski was attending her first concert at CBGBs; Television was playing, Talking Heads were opening, and the show was being narrated by none other than Seymour Stein of Sire Records. Her first steps into the venue, and Splash 1 by the Austin group 13th Floor Elevators came to mind. Maybe she felt a connection between two worlds, her life back in Texas and her new life in NYC. I’m “admitting my true sleaze,” she says with a chuckle.

I've seen your face before/I've known you all my life/And though it's new, your image cuts me like a knife/And now I'm home/And now I'm home/And now I'm home, to stay.

Chernikowski, “stumbled into photo,” as she modestly claims, when she shot photos of Tony Bird, a white South-African singer, whose music confined haunting lyrics and African Pop: “Bird’s music was very much a product of this environment where he grew up. He’s quite political and gorgeous, with nice bone structure.” She found out shortly after taking photos, the Village Voice was doing a story on him. So she casually brings the photographs in their office – walking out with a half-page on the back cover (when it used to be the arts cover) and another half-page spread inside. Since then her work has been featured in Rolling Stone and the New York Times, as well as two books, one of them with Henry Rollins called Dream Baby Dream Images from the Blank Generation.

Most of Chernikowski's photos are taken at the CBGB venue; and the venue's success is all credited to the owner Hilly Kristal. Hilly Kristal of CBGB was like the Bill Graham of the Filmore East. “So what was your relationship like with Hilly? What was he like?” I ask. “Paterfamilias. He was the punk grandpa - the great father. And he really treated everyone like his children. People will complain about what they were paid, but I don’t think anyone was bringing in that much money either.”

“So the inability to make ends meet and paying the rent on CBGB – is that the primary reason why it shut down?”

Stephanie pauses, “There’s debate. Have you seen the documentary? You should try to see it.” Just last Friday, Chernikowski accompanied Mandy Stein (Seymour Stein’s daughter and director of the film) at the screening of Burning Down the House: The Story of CBGB at the TriBeCa film festival. The film documents Kristal’s struggle to keep the venue open, and includes most of Chernikowski photos and any punk rock artist who stepped through that venue to get their 15 minutes of fame.

“33 years. The same age as Jesus. Goodnight everybody,” were Patti Smith’s last words on the CBGB stage before it closed its doors October 16, 2006.Patti Smith & Lenny Kaye, NYC 2006

“She [Patti Smith] is an amazing women and it was an amazing show. She walked out into the crowd before they had an event showing for the press. And when they did the show itself the only ones who were taking pictures were basically family. And I was with Lenny Kaye’s wife, Stephanie, whose camera was jammed. I was fixing it for her and she said, ‘well you know you can take picture with a point and shoot, you just can’t use a professional camera,’ and I went ‘oh great’ and I had a point and shoot and I had it loaded it with black and white film. And that’s how the picture came about. It was the actual show and not the press conference. And I only got a couple of shots that were good. That was the perfect shot. Yah know? I always wanted to get a perfect shot of Patty with Lenny because they started together, because it was just the two of them to begin with. So I am forever grateful for that shot."

Chernikowski had the ability to engage with the performer and as a result capture that perfect shot more than once. Punk Rock desperately wanted to be everything that 1970s rock was not - it wanted to be a new generation of music full of Patti Smith's free-flowing improvised poetic lyrics, Marianne Faithful's emotional out-cry, and the Ramones traditional 4/4 count and catchy choruses. Punk Rock wanted to be anything but Kiss; she knew this, and was able to depict the movement. “I love the shots best where I feel I capture something very personal about the person in the photograph. Iggy Pop always looks so pleased with himself. Marianne Faithfull looks appropriately tortured. Joey Ramone gave me a particularly sweet moment. And Debbie Harry just spontaneously blew a kiss. That’s why I say its luck: Somebody’s responds to you and it makes a gorgeous photograph. I consider photography very collaborate. I don’t like creating a fancy environment; I like to see people in their natural habitats. And I like seeing them be themselves, and not a star.”

Chernikowski could even capture an artist's emotions outside of the punk-rock stage performance. She agreed to take on a project where she photographed musicians in their own homes. Below is Richard Hell’s shot taken in this East Village home around 1980.Richard Hell NYC

“That was a totally spontaneous thing: I was doing a project [where] I had just gone to Nashville and seen tours of all the homes. It looked like they were Sears’ catalogues. And I came back to the city and said, ‘I have to do a lower east side version’. (I have a pretty perverse sense of humor) [This is taken of] Richard in his bedroom. I sat down on the bed to change my film and I looked up and I saw him looking at me, and I saw – which I refer to as a triptec because he’s in it three times. That’s his back on the far left. And the lower one was a little shard of a mirror that was standing against the wall at an angle. And the other one was on this chiffon robe that we had and we just caught each other’s eye and that was the photograph. So much is just being alert – very, very alert.”

I have the feeling Chernikowski has a blithe approach to life; she has a pulse of energy and the people around her positively react to it. Her approach is without distress, and during the process she finds the heart in every person she encounters and as a result finds the heart in every story. I was fortunate enough to meet her amid her artwork; her presence accessible and vulnerable at the same time.

Sunday
Apr122009

Hot Air and the Prairie: An Interview with Charles Bowden

John J. Mantia

Driving through North Dakota is a blithesome experience. The roads cut the dizzy bend of the horizon without stop.  The breaks in this endless panorama are the tragic reminders of this state's decline: a rusted pickup truck, wind-beaten farmhouse or razed homestead.

These sights are so jarring.  So much so, I longed to romanticize the decay as a means of coping. Sometimes it is easier to twist decay into fetish rather than cure it.

My first visit to North Dakota was nearly two years ago. I went to report and write.  My subject was the 125th anniversary celebrations of my grandfather’s hometown, Ellendale. Ellendale's residents, warm, genuine, embraced the festival.  Remembering the heights of decades past was easy for the residents, as many were life-long residents.  What wasn't so simple, however, was reconciling it's present as a broken town dotted with empty storefronts and abandoned homes.

My expose was terribly sad, and I could hardly stomach the thought of its publication.

It came as a relief then, nearly, when I read Charles Bowden and Eugene Richard’s photo essay on the abandoned farmsteads of North Dakota, published by National Geographic, entitled The Emptied Prairie.”  It showed the state as it is: at once the most beautiful and most broken place in America.

Unsurprisingly, the story riled (seemingly) the entire state. Thousands of North Dakotans wrote letters of complaint, including a gaggle of the state’s political figures. North Dakota Governor John Hoeven reasoned the article was belligerent and unbalanced.

The interview below was conducted a year ago, when I called Bowden, half-expecting a gruff cogitation on the uproar. Instead, I gleamed his measured reflection on the fallout, swapped memories of the state's welcoming people and parsed the challenges in writing with both compassion and honesty.

Outside of Ellendale, North Dakota, 2007

“The story has an odd history, it wasn’t my idea.”

The Fodder - You’ve collaborated with Eugene Richards before and published photo-essays before. How was the article conceptualized?

Bowden - Gene Richards, on his own dime, had been going out there photographing these houses, and National Geographic wanted to publish the photos because they have this haunting quality. National Geographic called me to go up there and write a background for these photos, which I did.

Neither Eugene Richards, myself or National Geographic had the faintest idea we were doing a profile of the state, and it certainly didn’t occur to me that there would be this official reaction to it because everybody you talk to in North Dakota will tell you flat-out what happened. Why wouldn’t they? You go to a town where one woman lives and there used to be 700 people when she was a kid, and the whole town is standing there empty. It’s not like there’s something to hide.

The Fodder - National Geographic Editor in Chief Chris Johns responded to North Dakota Governor John Hoeven’s letter of complaint by stating “The Emptied Prairie” was an investigation into the state, but rather the stories behind abandoned homes and their tragic beauty. Was the article’s message clear?

Bowden - National Geographic doesn’t do exposes for heaven’s sake! They were actually doing a kind of eulogy or elegy on the kind of America that Grant Wooden memorialized in “American Gothic,” the family farm type of thing.

I took two trips there and probably spent a few weeks, doing the National Geographic story. I was there in October and then back again in January, both a week or week and half. I never met anyone that had any hesitation talking about the economic history in the state. In other words, this wasn’t investigative journalism. You had a cup of coffee and people started talking about it.

The article was absolute commonplace if you go up there and talk to people. What’s in the newspapers and the reaction of the governor and other political people was simply a tempest in a teapot.

“The reaction in North Dakota was a tempest in a teapot”

The Fodder - How do you rationalize the uproar? Was it a case of you being an outsider? Would the reaction occur similarly if it were 10, 20 or 30 years ago?

Bowden - I think it would have been more severe, but let me back up. The reaction, I think, came from the headline on the story “The Emptied Prairie.” The reaction to it had nothing to do with what was written. It had to do with a concern in the state that they be portrayed with any sense of failure. The state for 50 years has been struggling against population loss and a shifting economy, and everyone talks about it. In other words, there is a built-in inferiority complex.

Insofar as years ago, 20 years ago, it would have been far more severe, certainly 30 years ago. Now, the interesting thing in doing the story was, everybody I talked to, realized it was over out there. They all talked about the decline of this agricultural economy in the western plains. What is interesting is, and if you bothered, and I wouldn’t recommend you read all the stories in newspapers in North Dakota denouncing the story, none of them quote a single person in the stories. Because if they were to call them, they would tell them what they told me.

The Fodder - Did you feel that being an outsider had anything to do with it? Did your words carry a certain harsh provinciality that made people stop and say, “Hey, who the hell do you think you are point at our scars?”

Bowden - I don’t think that was it to be honest. I think they couldn’t’ bear any negative portrayal of anything in the state. They didn’t want any discussion of the implosion of towns and of abandoned farms anywhere. I think if I had gone to Iowa, which to a degree you could do, because what Iowa has experienced is a conglomeration of agriculture. There’s been a rural shift, but Iowa is a relatively prosperous state because of light-industry. I don’t think they’d care at all. That’s the difference. North Dakota seriously considered getting rid of the North in its name. That tells you what’s going on.

The reaction to this story is peculiar. It is disproportionate to anything that was written. Frankly, I think the reaction to this was just purely political, a slow day at the newsroom. You’ve got to realize, people don’t write about North Dakota.

The Fodder - If the reaction to the piece was atypically angry, did you unknowingly convey something particular difficult or disheartening? Did you reveal something unsavory?

Bowden - What I found out there was something that’s actually very un-American. People aware that things are receding instead of growing. It’s not American that has a population of 250, and die the same town with a population of seven. That’s not our life experience, especially after World War II.

These people are dealing with something that isn’t typical of the nation, and they all travel, these aren’t little provincial people that don’t go anywhere, everywhere they go, they are building new stores and new suburbs, and in their state, you go to the town you were raised in and it’s functionally a ghost town. One guy I interviewed, he walked me around the town, showed me his grandfather’s house, his grandfather’s store, and he and his wife are the town’s last residents. That’s not a common experience in this country.

“I don’t think I’ve ever had a story that was easier to write.”

The Fodder - The palate available to a writer penning this type of story is huge, especially in a place with North Dakota’s landscape. Did your choices come easily?

Bowden - It’s a peculiar state in that it’s intimate. There isn’t anonymity in most of the state, except in a couple cities in the eastern part of the state. It made reporting simple. But frankly, what motivated me in the story were Richards’ photographs. His photographs hauntingly captured the sense of loss. Richards is real good.

The other thing is you’ll seldom meet a person in North Dakota that wasn’t born in the state. The population may be stable, but there is very little migration in. When you go around talking to people, I had the photographs, to write the captions, and everybody I spoke with had spent their whole life there. There is a deep memory in every place of what's happened, who had lived there. It was very easy to gather details.

The Fodder - Despite the reactions, your words seem empathetic. You seem to genuinely like North Dakota and the Great Plains, did that embolden your choices?

Bowden - Well yes, and I’ll tell you why. I am descended from people that settled in Iowa, Minnesota and North Dakota. As a child, in the 1950s, I actually was in some houses just like the ones that were abandoned out on the Plains. I actually enjoyed writing the story because it evoked powerful memories, whole memories in me, from 50 years ago. It was like revisiting my childhood. I had no trouble envisioning what happened in those houses. I tried to express those feelings. Magazine writing is about explaining things and conveying feeling, at least when it works. That’s what it’s about.

Charles Bowden is the author of the book Exodus and writes for GQ, Mother Jones and many, many other publications.