John J. Mantia
Driving through North Dakota is a blithesome experience. The roads cut the dizzy bend of the horizon without stop. The breaks in this endless panorama are the tragic reminders of this state's decline: a rusted pickup truck, wind-beaten farmhouse or razed homestead.
These sights are so jarring. So much so, I longed to romanticize the decay as a means of coping. Sometimes it is easier to twist decay into fetish rather than cure it.
My first visit to North Dakota was nearly two years ago. I went to report and write. My subject was the 125th anniversary celebrations of my grandfather’s hometown, Ellendale. Ellendale's residents, warm, genuine, embraced the festival. Remembering the heights of decades past was easy for the residents, as many were life-long residents. What wasn't so simple, however, was reconciling it's present as a broken town dotted with empty storefronts and abandoned homes.
My expose was terribly sad, and I could hardly stomach the thought of its publication.
It came as a relief then, nearly, when I read Charles Bowden and Eugene Richard’s photo essay on the abandoned farmsteads of North Dakota, published by National Geographic, entitled “The Emptied Prairie.” It showed the state as it is: at once the most beautiful and most broken place in America.
Unsurprisingly, the story riled (seemingly) the entire state. Thousands of North Dakotans wrote letters of complaint, including a gaggle of the state’s political figures. North Dakota Governor John Hoeven reasoned the article was belligerent and unbalanced.
The interview below was conducted a year ago, when I called Bowden, half-expecting a gruff cogitation on the uproar. Instead, I gleamed his measured reflection on the fallout, swapped memories of the state's welcoming people and parsed the challenges in writing with both compassion and honesty.

Outside of Ellendale, North Dakota, 2007
“The story has an odd history, it wasn’t my idea.”
The Fodder - You’ve collaborated with Eugene Richards before and published photo-essays before. How was the article conceptualized?
Bowden - Gene Richards, on his own dime, had been going out there photographing these houses, and National Geographic wanted to publish the photos because they have this haunting quality. National Geographic called me to go up there and write a background for these photos, which I did.
Neither Eugene Richards, myself or National Geographic had the faintest idea we were doing a profile of the state, and it certainly didn’t occur to me that there would be this official reaction to it because everybody you talk to in North Dakota will tell you flat-out what happened. Why wouldn’t they? You go to a town where one woman lives and there used to be 700 people when she was a kid, and the whole town is standing there empty. It’s not like there’s something to hide.
The Fodder - National Geographic Editor in Chief Chris Johns responded to North Dakota Governor John Hoeven’s letter of complaint by stating “The Emptied Prairie” was an investigation into the state, but rather the stories behind abandoned homes and their tragic beauty. Was the article’s message clear?
Bowden - National Geographic doesn’t do exposes for heaven’s sake! They were actually doing a kind of eulogy or elegy on the kind of America that Grant Wooden memorialized in “American Gothic,” the family farm type of thing.
I took two trips there and probably spent a few weeks, doing the National Geographic story. I was there in October and then back again in January, both a week or week and half. I never met anyone that had any hesitation talking about the economic history in the state. In other words, this wasn’t investigative journalism. You had a cup of coffee and people started talking about it.
The article was absolute commonplace if you go up there and talk to people. What’s in the newspapers and the reaction of the governor and other political people was simply a tempest in a teapot.
“The reaction in North Dakota was a tempest in a teapot”
The Fodder - How do you rationalize the uproar? Was it a case of you being an outsider? Would the reaction occur similarly if it were 10, 20 or 30 years ago?
Bowden - I think it would have been more severe, but let me back up. The reaction, I think, came from the headline on the story “The Emptied Prairie.” The reaction to it had nothing to do with what was written. It had to do with a concern in the state that they be portrayed with any sense of failure. The state for 50 years has been struggling against population loss and a shifting economy, and everyone talks about it. In other words, there is a built-in inferiority complex.
Insofar as years ago, 20 years ago, it would have been far more severe, certainly 30 years ago. Now, the interesting thing in doing the story was, everybody I talked to, realized it was over out there. They all talked about the decline of this agricultural economy in the western plains. What is interesting is, and if you bothered, and I wouldn’t recommend you read all the stories in newspapers in North Dakota denouncing the story, none of them quote a single person in the stories. Because if they were to call them, they would tell them what they told me.
The Fodder - Did you feel that being an outsider had anything to do with it? Did your words carry a certain harsh provinciality that made people stop and say, “Hey, who the hell do you think you are point at our scars?”
Bowden - I don’t think that was it to be honest. I think they couldn’t’ bear any negative portrayal of anything in the state. They didn’t want any discussion of the implosion of towns and of abandoned farms anywhere. I think if I had gone to Iowa, which to a degree you could do, because what Iowa has experienced is a conglomeration of agriculture. There’s been a rural shift, but Iowa is a relatively prosperous state because of light-industry. I don’t think they’d care at all. That’s the difference. North Dakota seriously considered getting rid of the North in its name. That tells you what’s going on.
The reaction to this story is peculiar. It is disproportionate to anything that was written. Frankly, I think the reaction to this was just purely political, a slow day at the newsroom. You’ve got to realize, people don’t write about North Dakota.
The Fodder - If the reaction to the piece was atypically angry, did you unknowingly convey something particular difficult or disheartening? Did you reveal something unsavory?
Bowden - What I found out there was something that’s actually very un-American. People aware that things are receding instead of growing. It’s not American that has a population of 250, and die the same town with a population of seven. That’s not our life experience, especially after World War II.
These people are dealing with something that isn’t typical of the nation, and they all travel, these aren’t little provincial people that don’t go anywhere, everywhere they go, they are building new stores and new suburbs, and in their state, you go to the town you were raised in and it’s functionally a ghost town. One guy I interviewed, he walked me around the town, showed me his grandfather’s house, his grandfather’s store, and he and his wife are the town’s last residents. That’s not a common experience in this country.
“I don’t think I’ve ever had a story that was easier to write.”
The Fodder - The palate available to a writer penning this type of story is huge, especially in a place with North Dakota’s landscape. Did your choices come easily?
Bowden - It’s a peculiar state in that it’s intimate. There isn’t anonymity in most of the state, except in a couple cities in the eastern part of the state. It made reporting simple. But frankly, what motivated me in the story were Richards’ photographs. His photographs hauntingly captured the sense of loss. Richards is real good.
The other thing is you’ll seldom meet a person in North Dakota that wasn’t born in the state. The population may be stable, but there is very little migration in. When you go around talking to people, I had the photographs, to write the captions, and everybody I spoke with had spent their whole life there. There is a deep memory in every place of what's happened, who had lived there. It was very easy to gather details.
The Fodder - Despite the reactions, your words seem empathetic. You seem to genuinely like North Dakota and the Great Plains, did that embolden your choices?
Bowden - Well yes, and I’ll tell you why. I am descended from people that settled in Iowa, Minnesota and North Dakota. As a child, in the 1950s, I actually was in some houses just like the ones that were abandoned out on the Plains. I actually enjoyed writing the story because it evoked powerful memories, whole memories in me, from 50 years ago. It was like revisiting my childhood. I had no trouble envisioning what happened in those houses. I tried to express those feelings. Magazine writing is about explaining things and conveying feeling, at least when it works. That’s what it’s about.
Charles Bowden is the author of the book Exodus and writes for GQ, Mother Jones and many, many other publications.